By Ubong Usoro
Fashion in Nigeria is more than just clothing and apparel; it is a reflection of the identity of a people, their culture, beliefs, and evolution. From the Agbada of the Yoruba to the Babaringa of the Hausa, and the Isiagu of the Igbos, the style, culture, and message are clear. The gender, rank, and social standing of a person can be mirrored by their traditional African attire, distinguishing male from female, rich from poor, and even royals from commoners.
Fashion in Precolonial Nigeria
Image: Culled from Umu Onicha kingdom post
In Precolonial Nigeria, clothing was simple and flexible. People showed their ingenuity by using raw materials available in their environment to create styles that suited their region. Since Nigeria is generally hot, men wore loincloths or aprons, while women wrapped cloth around their waist or breasts.
The earliest forms of clothing included bark cloth, furs, skins, and hides, with the rest of the body decorated with marks and color pigments. Men would simply wrap bark cloth between their legs, secured with a belt, while women draped the cloth over a belt to cover the front of their bodies.
Fashion in Colonial Nigeria
The arrival of Europeans during the colonial era significantly influenced Nigerian fashion. Western clothing, such as trousers, shirts, skirts, and dresses, began to infiltrate the traditional wardrobe. This period saw a blending of European styles with local fashion, as Nigerians incorporated elements of Western dress into their traditional attire. For example, Western blouses and skirts were often paired with traditional wrappers and headscarves for women, while men began wearing suits and jackets over their native Agbada or Babaringa.
Missionaries and colonial administrators, in particular, encouraged the adoption of Western clothing, viewing it as a sign of civilization and modernity. However, despite the influence of colonial powers, Nigerians continued to hold onto their cultural identity through their clothing, using their dress to make statements about their heritage, status, and community.
Fashion in Post-Independence Nigeria
With the dawn of independence in 1960, fashion became a canvas through which Nigerians expressed their pride and identity. Designers embraced the opportunity to celebrate the nation’s newfound freedom through creative expressions, blending traditional styles with modern influences. This era marked a shift in fashion consciousness, as clothing became a powerful medium for showcasing cultural heritage and nationalism.
Nigerian independence inspired designers to incorporate patriotic motifs, colors, and symbols into their creations. The green and white of the national flag began to appear in designs, symbolizing unity and hope. Traditional fabrics like Ankara, Aso Oke, and Adire were reimagined to reflect contemporary tastes, while still paying homage to their cultural roots.
The Rise of Nigerian Designers and Brands
The post-independence era also witnessed the emergence of a vibrant and flourishing Nigerian fashion industry. Designers such as Deola Sagoe, Lisa Folawiyo, and Mai Atafo began to captivate both local and international audiences with their unique aesthetics and innovative approaches. Deola Sagoe became known for her intricate craftsmanship and modern interpretation of traditional attire, while Lisa Folawiyo revolutionized Ankara by incorporating embellishments and beading into the fabric, creating a luxurious and refined look. Mai Atafo, on the other hand, became a household name for his tailored men’s suits and wedding attire, blending Nigerian influences with global trends.
This era saw Nigerian designers break into the global fashion scene, with their creations gracing runways in major cities like New York, Paris, and London. The world began to recognize the distinctiveness and vibrancy of Nigerian fashion, which seamlessly married tradition with modernity.
Fashion Styles in Contemporary Nigeria
Image Culled from Leadership
Image culled from Medium
Today, Nigerian fashion continues to evolve, reflecting a diverse blend of traditional and modern styles for both men and women. For women, Ankara remains a staple fabric, often worn in the form of stylish gowns, peplum tops, and skirts. The Buba and Iro, a traditional wrapper and blouse set, have also seen modern twists, with designers incorporating contemporary cuts and embellishments. Additionally, women’s fashion includes the popular gele (headtie), often styled elaborately for special occasions.
For men, traditional attire such as the Agbada, Babaringa, and Dashiki are still widely worn, especially for formal events. However, there has been an increasing trend toward contemporary men’s fashion that merges traditional fabrics with Western-style suits and shirts. Many Nigerian men now opt for tailored kaftans or senator suits, which feature clean lines and a modern fit, while still retaining a distinctly Nigerian essence.
See also https://nigeriamag.com/discover-nigeria-nigeria-fashion-since-independence/
